This article was taken from the May 2012 issue of Wired magazine. Be the first to read Wired's articles in print before they're posted online, and get your hands on loads of additional content by subscribing online.

How we tested

We gave five TV chef-endorsed 20cm saucepans to Andre Dupin, head chef at L'atelier des Chefs cookery school. We timed how long it took to boil cold water on gas and induction hobs, and assessed design, heat distribution, and cleaning.

Jamie Oliver 20cm saucepan by Tefal (above)

This non-stick pan is suitable for induction and gas hobs, and claims to be durable enough to be used with metal utensils. It features a copper ring and heart in the base to ensure even cooking, and was very easy to clean -- our testing chef Andre Dupin was impressed by how "stuck-on tomato sauce just slid off". It's also dishwasher-safe.

Wired: Effective non-stick cooking surface

Tired: No second handle

7/10

£42, homeandcook.co.uk

James Martin 20cm saucepan by Stellar

Suitable for gas and induction hobs, the thick, hot-forged base of this pan distributes heat quickly. The pan's outer layer is made from polished stainless steel, so it's easy to clean as well as eye-catching. Our chef found the sculpted handle gave the most secure grip; the "helper handle" makes moving a full pan less spill-prone.

Wired: Useful second handle for carrying

Tired: The glass lid is potentially vulnerable

7/10

£43

stellarcookware.co.uk

Raymond Blanc Professional 20cm Saucepan

With its riveted handle and lid, this deep saucepan looks serious and stylish. "Although you can't use it on an induction hob, [Blanc's] pan does the job it needs to do," says Dupin. The non-stick coating is effective, but cleaning it requires a gentle touch - so no scouring with wire-wool as you would a stainless-steel pan.

Wired: Quickest to boil up on a gas hob

Tired: You can't cook by induction

6/10

£64

raymondblancbyanolon.com

Gino D'acampo 20cm saucepan

This 20cm design comes as part of a set of three - with 18cm and 16cm models included - and features tempered glass lids with steam vents which prevent the pan from boiling over. Dupin noted that its aluminium body could have done with a little more weight to it, "but that doesn't mean this isn't a good saucepan - and it's reasonably priced for a set of three." This pan can't be used on induction hobs, and Dupin would not recommend putting it in the dishwasher as it could spoil the anodised finish.

Wired: Set of three represents good value

Tired: Bland design; feels insubstantial

4/10

£55

tesco.com

Michel Roux 20cm saucepan by GreenPan

This beautifully finished pan has an all-round pouring rim to minimise spillage. Made from tri-ply stainless steel, it has a vented lid and a Thermalon ROCKS coating to help distribute heat evenly. It was the quickest at heating water on an induction hob, and Dupin noted that its handle made the pan very comfortable to use. It also cleaned up easily and felt solid.

Wired: Durable build quality; comfortable

Tired: Expensive

8/10

£85

green-pan.co.uk

This article was originally published by WIRED UK